Showing posts with label green crafts. Show all posts
Showing posts with label green crafts. Show all posts

Sunday, April 22, 2012

Recycled Mini Greenhouses

Happy Earth Day! We love Earth Day at our house; not just because of the concept behind it but also because it is the anniversary of our engagement!  11 years.  Which means that this year marks our 10th wedding anniversary - wow!  

Anyway, back to Earth Day... To celebrate this year, Maya and I raided our recycling bin and made some mini greenhouses in which to start our seeds.  Okay, to be honest, the toilet paper tubes hadn't even made it to the recycling bin.  I have an issue with disposing (even recycling) toilet paper tubes.  I keep thinking, "There has to be something I can do with this."  So, rather than throw them in with my other recyclables, I end up lining them up on the window sill behind the toilet waiting for inspiration to strike.  My friends that use my bathrooms must think I'm very odd.  Check that.  They already know that I'm odd, it's the visitors that happen to use the bathroom that must think I'm very odd.  Oh well.  

Monday, November 14, 2011

Natural Wood Building Blocks


I thought I'd start this post with a public service announcement:

No trees were harmed in the making of these blocks.

No, no, that wasn't it.

I am, by no possible scope of the definition, a woodworker.  

And, I'm not so sure this was such a great project for an almost 6 mos pregnant lady like myself - too many contortions required by my less-than-mobile body!

Now that that's out of the way... I'd seen some cool, natural wood blocks in a catalog awhile back and loved them, but thought they were a little pricey.  Then, my friend had a black walnut tree taken down on her property and said she had some fairly good-sized branches left and my mind started ticking.  So, I decided to make these to enter into an auction for our local chapter of Wild Ones, a native plant organization that I am involved with. 

There are several other blogs that talk about how to make blocks like these, including "Life on Willowdale" and "Home in the Country".  They both left the bark on, but for these I decided to try to remove the bark partly because it was fairly covered with lichens and also because of the nature of black walnut wood - it has really cool striations of the darker heartwood and lighter sapwood that I hoped would show better with the bark off.  (And, let's face it, because I like to make things harder on myself than necessary.)  There is also a Google Doc from the State of Minnesota DNR and Project Learning Tree that has some useful information in it. 

Here is roughly the process we followed:
1.  Collect the wood.  We started with several branches, each about 6' long and ranging from about 2 1/2" at the base to 1" thick at the tip.

2.  Remove the bark (if desired).  I used a 1" chisel to do this.  (I actually wasn't that successful in this - although it still ended up looking pretty neat - on a lot of the pieces the very innermost layer of bark remained.  For more information on the tissues in a tree branch, check out this site.)  If you remove the bark, then you should sand the branch smooth before you go onto the cutting step.  Start with course sandpaper and then work your way to fine.  (I used 60, 100, and then 150.) 
Branch with bark (mostly) stripped.
Branch after sanding.

3.  Cut the branch into your blocks.  Try to vary the cuts so that you get a variety of different lengths and widths for your blocks. I used a compound mitre saw, but you could definitely use a hand saw.  Sand the cut edges so that no rough spots remain.  I used a coarse and then a fine sandpaper. 

4.  Dry the blocks in an oven set at a very low temperature (200 degrees or lower) for a period of 2 to 5 hours.  To do this, place a wire cooling rack on top of a metal cookie sheet, then add a piece of parchment paper to the top.  Put the blocks on this set-up and periodically rotate the blocks.  Because I'm a geek, I also weighed a couple of the blocks every half-hour - they lost about 10% of their mass by about the 2 1/2 hour point and then stayed pretty consistent for the next hour so I turned off the oven then.  It will be interesting to see if they crack over time, though.
Our drying set-up.

5.  Re-sand the blocks, if necessary.  I noticed that the drying out process seemed to roughen my edges a bit so I did a quick sanding job.

6.  Coat with a protective layer.  I used a jojoba oil/beeswax mixture that I bought a while ago from Jupiter's Child on Etsy.  (I also bought an adorable carved wooden squirrel for our nature table - they have some really cute things!)  I think you can make your own using olive oil and beeswax (or jojoba oil, which smells amazing, if you can find it).  Rub the wax/oil mixture onto all the surfaces of the block.  (An aside: Rub the mixture into your hands.  Ah!)  Let sit for at least an hour then buff off with a smooth cloth. 
Blocks coated with the oil/beeswax mixture.

7.  Play with your Natural Wood Building Blocks!

A Few Thoughts: 
  • Start with a branch that is at least 2" thick at its base; 2 1/2" to 4" would be even better.  If you do decide to strip off the bark, then you will lose some thickness there and it is nice to have a diversity of sizes in your blocks.  (Mine were a little too uniform.)
  • While I like the look without the bark, bark removal is not an easy process and added at least a couple of hours to the process, between de-barking and sanding.  If you do decided to remove the bark, realize that some types of trees are much easier than others to remove their bark.  Also, I've heard that it is easier to remove bark in the spring when the sap is running.
  • Obviously, the sawing part of this process is not appropriate for young children.  I used a small hand sander for most of my sanding (a Dremel would probably have worked even better!  Can we say Christmas List?) but if you do the sanding by hand then kids could help there.  They also would be great coating the small pieces with the wax/oil mixture.  Sydney helped me carry stuff out to the barn but, luckily, she is terrified rather than intrigued by the loud saw I used, so she vacated shortly thereafter.
  • Air-drying is really probably the way to go, but it requires a lot of patience.  My understanding is that it takes about 1 year/1 inch of thickness of wood, depending on the warmth and humidity levels of where you store the wood.  I have several branches left that I'm going to treat with Anchorseal, a waxy product that I picked up at our local WoodCraft store, and try to make another set of blocks next fall.
If you end up doing this project, please let me know how it turns out and, as always, if you have any ways to improve it!  (As I said, I'm not a woodworker!)  You can also add any pictures to a new Flickr group I just created, Activities with Momma Owl's Lab.

Have fun!


Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Acorn Necklaces

The driveway leading to our house is surrounded by oak trees and the girls and I love walking down it during the fall, crunching the leaves under our feet and finding treasures to bring back to our nature table.  Recently, I saw a very cool post on Rhythm of the Home about using acorn caps and felted wool balls to make acorn necklaces.  Perfect!

There were so many fun parts to this project, from collecting the acorn caps (and some leaves in the process)

to making the felted wool balls using a basin of hot, soapy water;


to finally assembling the acorn necklaces - and Sydney even got to wield the glue gun.  Yes, a little scary (for mom) but she was so proud of herself!



We used two small packages of wool roving (one cream and one dark brown) and it made about 20 acorn bottoms.  I found that the girls could roll it most of the way into balls, but needed a little help at the end to finish them off.  As Syd's 5th birthday is coming up, I think we'll bring our finished product to school that day to share with her friends.


The Science of Felting
In case your curious little scientist asks, I wanted to add a brief explanation of why the wool roving felts into balls.  Wool is a natural fiber whose shaft has an interesting characteristic in that it has what amount to little hooks coming off of it.  Given the right circumstances, in our case: water, soap and friction, the hooks are able to grab onto each other and create almost a matted fabric.  (Hence the problem with throwing a 100% wool sweater in the washing machine... massive shrinkage!)  The wool from different breeds of sheep may felt differently from others.  Also,  many white or even cream wools do not felt well.  This is because in order to create the white color, many of these wools are bleached which destroys that hook-like characteristic of the shaft so it is no longer able to grab onto other wool.  We definitely found that to be true in the acorns that we made - the white ones were much harder to form into felted balls than the brown roving!